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Carstensz Pyramid Travel Warning

May 20th, 2013 | Posted by Charles Miske in Logistics | Oceania - (Comments Off)
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Carstensz Pyramid travel can be difficult. There are a few logistic hoops to jump through. Trekking in Equatorial Jungle. Various permits. Lack of helicopters. These are all issues to deal with. No one is going to rescue you and you need to be self-sufficient. You are taking a big risk. I had quite a few experiences of this nature when I climbed Carstensz in April of 2013. I wrote about them in my book Carstensz, Stone Age to Iron Age.

The mine was brought up as well. We were told that many expeditions had run into trouble with the mine, who in partnership with the local government owned all the land in the Carstensz area. With our government permits we were allowed to trek in, summit, then trek out. We would not be allowed to trespass, or cross any property of the mine not specifically spelled out in our permit. — Carstensz, Stone Age to Iron Age

My good friend at the logistics company I used for this trip posted this on the Facebook Event page for our climb of Carstensz Pyramid:

Carstensz Pyramid Travel and Climbing: Company Policy

Carstensz Pyramid Travel and Climbing - Freeport Mine Policy

Freeport Policy for Carstensz Climbers

Carstensz is indeed a logistical nightmare. There are only a mere handful of local operators able to handle the convoluted system of permits and porters and hiking trails that get you to the bottom of the cliffs of Carstensz. Then you have 2,000′ of climbing on steep limestone and gravel gullies with ratty fixed lines with poor anchors. While not technically severe in grade, the climbing has a fair amount of exposure, or perception of steepness and a deadly drop into the abyss between your heels. It’s not like Kilimanjaro, on which any reasonably fit person could walk up to the top. — Carstensz, Stone Age to Iron Age

If you want to see the full text of the (Carstensz Pyramid Travel and) Climbing Policy CLICK HERE

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Carstensz Pyramid Gear List

April 16th, 2013 | Posted by Charles Miske in Logistics | Oceania - (Comments Off)
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To climb Carstensz Pyramid right now the only option is trekking. Six days up to base camp from Sugapa Village to the Carstensz Pyramid summit at nearly 4900 meters. Then four days to return to the village. There could be a few days of weather to contend with at base camp. You’ll need enough gear to last the two weeks. You’ll also need to be as light as possible, as the porters will only carry 17 kg. That’s about 37 lb.

17 Kilograms per Porter for the Carstensz Pyramid trek

17 Kilograms per Porter for the Carstensz Pyramid trek

Carstensz Pyramid Gear List

Climbing Gear
Alpine climbing harness, adjustable leg loops, fit over all clothing.
Double lanyard (Via Ferrata).
4 Locking carabiners.
Figure 8 Belay-Rappel Device.
1 mechanical ascender with handle.
Climbing helmet, fit with hat on
Trekking boots.
1 Pr rappel gloves.
Adjustable trekking poles.

Upper Body
Long sleeve base layer, light colored, sun and mosquito protection.
T-shirt for lower elevations (optional).
Soft Shell or fleece jacket.
Down/synthetic puffy jacket light-to-medium weight.
Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable.
1 Pair liner gloves.
1 Pair medium weight gloves.
Warm hat Wool or synthetic.
Balaclava.
Sun hat or baseball cap.
Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case.
Extra pair of sunglasses.

Sleeping Gear
Sleeping bag Rated to at least 10-20º F. Line the stuff sack w/plastic bag.
Sleeping pad Full length closed cell foam.
Thermarest (bring repair kit).

Backpack
Day pack 1800-3000 cubic inch for approach hike and summit day (a full pack is not required as we use porters).
1 Large duffel bag.
1 Small duffel bag for leaving clean clothes etc at Timika.
Locks for duffel bags.
Backpack Cover – waterproof.
Stuff sacks & plastic bags– waterproof.

Lower Body
1-2 Pair light-medium weight base layer.
1-2 pair lightweight short underwear.
1 Pair soft shell trousers.
1 Pair nylon shorts quick-drying type.
Lightweight pants for hiking.
Shell trousers Waterproof/breathable with full side zips.

Carstensz Pyramid Trekking Boots Scarpa Charmoz GTX

Carstensz Pyramid Trekking Boots Scarpa Charmoz GTX

Footwear
Trekking Boots.
Wellingtons (these must be knee-high and fitted with trekking boot insoles; you will spend much more time walking in Wellingtons than trekking boots).
Gaiters.
Sandals or light hiking/trail shoes for use at camp.
2 Pair of liner socks.
2 Pair wool/synthetic socks Medium weight.

purificup water purifier for Carstensz Pyramid gear

Purificup for clean water on Carstensz Pyramid

Miscellaneous Equipment
Personal first aid kit Basics: blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc.

Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks.
Sunscreen At least SPF 40.
Insect repellant Small bottle.
Headlamp plus one set spare batteries.
2-3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene.
Pee bottle.
Pocket knife mid-size.
Water purification Silver ion, Chlorine or Iodine tablets.
Hand sanitizer.
Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
Camp towel.
Bandanas (one, optional).
Neck gaiter (optional).
Snacks and/or munchies Bring your favorite “trail foods” or desserts, pack in Ziplocs. Preferably to include extra protein.
Camera Optional; large SLR types are not recommended.
Paperback books.
Walkman etc + 2 sets earphones.
Solar charger.
Small stainless thermos (optional).
Umbrella (optional but recommended).

Carstensz Pyramid Solar Power Battery Pack

Solar Power via Goal Zero for Carstensz Pyramid Climb

Carstensz Pyramid Gear List From Carstensz-Expedition
Guide 10 Solar Powered Battery Pack from Goal Zero
Purificup Water Purification System.

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Carstensz Itinerary

April 16th, 2013 | Posted by Charles Miske in Logistics | Oceania - (Comments Off)
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Carstensz Pyramid is the highest point of the continent of Oceania. Oceania is the continent used to get Carstensz into the Seven Summits for the Messner list. For the Bass list you would use Kosciousko on Australia. This is a much simpler alternative in almost every way.

Carstensz highest point of Oceania, image by Ch1902 Wikipedia
Orthographic map of the Australasian part of Oceania: Australia, New Guinea, Island Melanesia, and New Zealand, but excluding the Maluccas – by Ch1902 on Wikipedia

Carstensz Itinerary

Day 1, 20 Apr : Welcome dinner in Bali
Day 2, 21 Apr : 00.30am check out. 02.15am fly to Timika.
07.00am arrival in Timika. gear check etc.
Day 3, 22 Apr : Charter flight – Timika to Sugapa-Bilogai airstrip.
Porters arrangement then travel by motorcycle to Muara River.
trek to Suanggama (last village).
Day 4, 23 Apr : Trekking from Suanggama to Camp I.
Day 5, 24 Apr : Trekking from Camp I to Camp II (Enda Tsiga).
Day 6, 25 Apr : Trekking from Camp II to Camp III (Ebay).
Day 7, 26 Apr : Trekking from Camp III to Camp IV (Nasidome).
Day 8, 27 Apr : Trekking to Carstensz Base Camp.
Day 9, 28 Apr : Carstensz Climb.
Day 10, 29 Apr : Basecamp – Nasidome.
Day 11, 30 Apr : Nasidome – Enda Tsiga passing Ebay – the shortest trek.
Day 12, 1 May : Enda Tsiga – Suanggama if possible, continue to Sugapa).
Day 13, 2 May : (early morn, Suanggama-Sugapa) then fly out to NABIRE Day.
Day 14, 3 May : fly to Bali.
Day 15-17 , 4-6 May : Preserve days for bad weather, flight delay, etc.

If there is good weather and a strong team we could fly to Bali on Day 13, May 2. Otherwise worst case, on Day 17, May 6. Speaking of weather, today I can get a forecast to April 25 via Mountain-Forecast.

Carstensz Weather – Trailhead Sugapa 2000 meters

Carstensz Trailhead Weather

Carstensz weather for the trailhead near Sugapa Airport

Carstensz Weather – Base Camp 4200 meters

Carstensz Base Camp Weather

Carstensz Base Camp – weather at 4200 meters

Carstensz Weather – Summit 4900 meters

Carstensz Summit Weather

Carstensz Summit -Weather at 4900 meters

Trekking to the base of Carstensz Pyramid is a very rugged adventure. Lots of mud, insects, rain, humidity. It’s a big challenge. I’m hoping that my training pays off and that I can endure the Carstensz Seven Summits Challenge.

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Aconcagua Logistics Flights and Visa

November 7th, 2012 | Posted by Charles Miske in Logistics | South America - (Comments Off)
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The key to Aconcagua logistics is planning before you go. Flying to Mendoza Argentina is relatively painless. I went before in March of 2010 during the earthquake in Chile that closed the Santiago airport. LAN (the airline) was really accommodating to get me back to the states. If you book with American, you’ll most likely end up on LAN anyway at least from Santiago to Mendoza. Some people fly in to Buenos Aires with the intention of switching to a local flight to Mendoza. Be aware that there are two airports with a 90 minute bus ride between them. One is primarily International and the other local. Plan accordingly.

Aconcagua Logistics select airport carefully

Buenos Aires Oceanside Airport View

Another important consideration for Aconcagua logistics is planning for your Visa. From the United States there is no particular requirement except the Reciprocity Fee. In Santiago Chile, if you will be leaving the terminal you will have to pay the Chilean Reciprocity Fee. This fee represents what a citizen of Chile would pay for entry to the USA. You shouldn’t have to leave the terminal though. Most of the flights I’ve looked at on LAN have reasonable layovers in Santiago. The International Terminal had quite a few shops, though I haven’t been there since the earthquake.

Aconcagua Logistics airport information Santiago Chile

Santiago Chile Airport

Aconcagua Logistics Reciprocity Fee

In Argentina you have to pay their Reciprocity Fee. In years past they would often only collect this if you were to fly in to Buenos Aires. Now they require you to pay online previous to your trip at the Provincia Pagos website. You are required to create an account and pay online. When you get to Mendoza then you are to trade in your online printout for an official copy.

Aconcagua Logistics Argentina Reciprocity Fee

Log in for Argentina Reciprocity Fee

I just now got my flights for November 24 – December 8 and haven’t had a chance to complete my Aconcagua logistics by applying for my Argentina Reciprocity Fee online yet. I will post an updated article when I have.

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Apply for a Russian Visa – August 2012

August 24th, 2012 | Posted by Charles Miske in Europe | Logistics - (Comments Off)
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Things have changed a bit in the last couple years. You sent in your App and Document Package via Fedex to a Russian Consulate with a Certified Check or Money Order, waited some period of time, then it appeared on your desk via a return Fedex envelope. Last year, possibly with the intent of the thousands of tourists that Socchi 2014 would be bringing in, they announced a new streamlined fast track to the process.

Moscow Airport at sunset

Sunset over SVO (Moscow Airport)

Here is some info about the current streamlined process, via an official Consulate Website indicating that for the new streamlined process, they will no longer accept applications for visas. I have selected Seattle because I have relatives there who can assist in my application process, but the other Consulate offices are the same.

Russian Consulate does not accept applications

No longer apply for a Russian Visa at the Consulate


The site for ILS is pretty informative and straight-forward. For a news item of possible future importance:

News
25.06.2012
Effective 07/20/2012 Invisa Logistic Services will be accepting documents by mail.

There are prices and rules for applying via mail, but if you call their office, the canned answering machine message says no applications by mail will be accepted. It’s probable that they did not update the voicemail message. Sadly, rush processing visas cannot be done by mail, but it’s probably the best option for most people outside the metro areas of the Consulates if you have no issues with the potential 30 days processing time.

When you make your reservations for your trip, whether through a guide company (in the US or Europe or Russia) or if you’re trying to go on the cheap or self-supported, through a regional hotel, you will get an “Invitation and Voucher” for your Russian visit. They will be in Russian, and probably unintelligible to you, but your tour operator or guide should provide a cheat sheet for you with instructions on how to fill out your visa application.

Invitation and Voucher

Stamped Invitation and Voucher – bad scan

You will need to fill out the application completely as per the instructions from your logistics provider in Russia. If you are really really clever you might be able to figure out a way to do all of this on your own without a tour operator. You will need an invitation and voucher from a registered hotel or tour operator. You will need to get transportation from MRV airport to Cheget or Azau, where there is lodging available. You will need to get up the mountain to the huts. If you expect to use any of the hut facilities, including what passes for an outhouse, you will need to make arrangements with the hut manager, including price.

Azau Hotel Party Den

“Clubbing” in Azau

Odds are that possibly one person at the hotel will speak some English, as will as any guides affiliated with your logistics company, but certainly no one on the hut staff will. So yes, if you speak Russian, and are clever, you can do this all on your own. If not, various local operators have a “lite” package that provides these basic services, and you can pay as you go.

Pilgrim Tours and Top Sport Travel are two of the most visible on the net. Dig around and contact them with your needs. Be aware that with the time difference, it might be a day or two to receive a reply, depending on when you send it and when they get it. Keep an eye on your spam filters as well – since it will be from Russia, it might just go straight to your trash.

You will have to wire them money, and that process depends a great deal on your bank policies. If you can do it online, note that your bank might temporarily close access to your account and lock it, in case you were hacked from Russia. I would do the transfer during the day and be right there by your phone to call support and verify you intended this transaction. If you’re using a US guide company this won’t be an issue – they take care of a lot of this for you as part of their overall expedition cost.

For your visa application, you will need your US passport with at least six months to the expiration date, a passport photo, a completed application (see below notes), your invitation and voucher, a cover letter (if mailing application: from a template on ILS), and a Cashier’s Check for the proper amount (from their price list). Check for the closest ILS processing office to you and verify that it is in fact the correct one. There is a little bit of documentation that applies to the various offices for which state can or should apply to which center, most of which really only applies if you are a Russian National or dual citizen. If you are going in person, make an appointment. If you’re mailing it in, follow the instructions.

Baksan Local

Beautiful Baksan Local

If all goes well you will get your passport back with a visa inserted onto an empty page. Good luck with your plans to climb Elbrus, tallest mountain in Europe, and one of the Seven Summits.

Following up on the Russian Visa Application process:

I’ve since completed all of this process successfully now, and have a few comments. The current system is actually just a bit simpler than the old system, in spite of the few additional complications in the timing of the mail-in app process. You must fill out the application online, which limits some of the types and lengths of answers you would give, which also limits the amount of thinking that goes with processing the app. Sadly this also limits somewhat vague answers, such as just listing a year for an answer, that now requires a day/month/year answer.

At the end of the online app process there is a place for additional notes, which might be important, such as in my case, where I will not actually be staying in Moscow, but there is no place in the current form to say “Moscow (Transit)” which is what I did last time I did not stay in Moscow. I listed that in the notes.

You then print up the form from the online, glue your passport photo to it, sign and date it, and hand it in. There is a bar-code on it, that I have been told is because they actually process from your online, and the paper form is a formality so they have your photo and signature.

Goal Zero Solar

Goal Zero Solar Power at the Barrels Huts on Elbrus

I had the assistance of a family member who was in Utah on family business who was able to take it into the office and submit it for rush processing. They picked up the completed submission earlier today and will be expressing it to me in the next few days, hopefully so that I get it before September 1 when I must be at the airport to leave.

As a brief aside, if I were not able to get assistance from a family member, I would have had to use up one of my free flights from Southwest, and would probably have done some hiking on Rainier while waiting for my app to finish processing.

P.S. this is all only applicable if you are a US Citizen applying for a tourist visa – just in case that’s not you refer to the ILS website for information pertaining to you, but the general principles still apply.

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