The Peaks of the Seven Continents
Header

Japanese woman, 73 attempts Everest record

April 17th, 2012 | Posted by Charles Miske in Asia | News | Records - (Comments Off)

“She is an active mountaineer who is physically and mentally fit enough to climb Everest,” said Ang Tshering Sherpa, of the Kathmandu-based Asian Trekking mountaineering agency. “She will launch her ascent from the Tibetan side of the mountain.” – AFP News

Tamae Watanabe had already made history upon reaching the world’s highest peak May 16 of 2002, and now, at 73, will be attempting to smash her own record. Her plan is to summit around May 10-12. Good luck Ms. Watanabe!

Source: google.com via Charles on Pinterest

Related Posts:

Olympic Medal Heads to Everest Summit

April 3rd, 2012 | Posted by Charles Miske in Asia | News - (Comments Off)

Kenton Cool, who has climbed Everest a record (for a British mountaineer) 9 times will be carrying a special package to the top of Everest this season.

he will have honoured a pledge by Lieutenant Colonel Edward Lisle Strutt, deputy leader of the pioneering 1922 expedition, made to Baron Pierre de Coubertin, who awarded the climbers medals at the 1924 Winter Olympics in Chamonix. Strutt promised to return to Everest and take a medal to the summit, something he never managed. — The Guardian


Kenton fell in 1996, shattering his heels and ankles, resulting in a year away from climbing, and still has metal in his legs that causes him to run with an awkward gait. In spite of that, he’ll be running a leg of the 2012 London Olympics Torch Relay on July 23. Having been a guide and taking clients to the top of Everest in the past, this year Kenton will be climbing with only the medal and a cameraman.

The Olympics are an excellent time to review our past and our future and look for the links between and connecting them. I hope this works out for the best and achieves all the goals surrounding it. I love the Olympic Park in Park City Utah where some of the events of the 2002 Winter Olympics were held, such as the various ski jumping and bobsled, luge and skeleton competitions. I would love to visit the upcoming venues in London someday. Good luck Kenton.

2002 Winter Olympic Park

2002 Winter Olympic Park in Park City Utah

Related Posts:

Where is Everest Again?

March 16th, 2012 | Posted by Charles Miske in Article | News - (Comments Off)

How can Everest suddenly appear in the UK? According to a recent poll, roughly 20% of the British population is “clueless” about several important features of their geography. Stonehenge, Everest, Ayers Rock, London and Balmoral Castle all fell prey to mass relocation in the poll. Many think that Everest is in Britain.

Source: thesun.co.uk via Charles on Pinterest


The poll of 2,000 was carried out by tour firm Journeys of Distinction. Managing Director Karen Gee said: “We were astounded.”
The firm said the internet may be partly to blame …
Who’s in UK? One in five Brits clueless – The Sun

Dang internet …

Related Posts:

In June of 2009 I had a pivotal experience on Liberty Ridge on a trip guided by IMG guides Mark Allen and Jeff Ward. We barely survived summiting in 60 + MPH winds, wandering along steep cliffs and crevasses in a whiteout to spend the night in a moat (ice cave) 120′ below the surface of the glacier. Over the course of the trip I realized my own comfort level was off a bit compared to “normal” people, including sleeping 6″ overhanging the edge of a 75 degree ice slope:

The camp is basically a couple of tent platforms on a 45 degrees slope, beautiful and exposed; with very little room to move around. Blue-bagging will be a challenge here; but we all do our duties. We cook dinner, and I try to eat as much as I can. Little that I knew at the time, I would not have another meal in 30 hours. We settle again for the night, I am glad I am sleeping on the uphill side; Ann is in the middle and Rick just over the edge. His position does nothing to prevent him to quickly fall sleep and soundly snore throughout the short night. Thankfully I am well equipped with drugs and earplugs. Jeff announces start time for 2:00am. – Dodging Bullets on Liberty Ridge – Claudio Argento – Alpine Lines Blog


I also realized my own comfort level on Alpine Mixed terrain of steep slopey blocks of rock and ice and mud, and shallow (AI 2-3) ice. My climbing friends all say this is not normal. I normally don’t think about this too much, and just take it for granted, but today I received a notification for an article on Outside Online Magazine about the differences in brain chemistry or physiology for abnormal risk takers, quoted here:

There are three major emotional ingredients to risk taking … all driven by individual brain chemistry. One is desire for adventure (“sensation seeking”), in what’s known as the reward pathway of the brain, the mysterious mechanisms where happiness juices flow; high-risk takers may simply get a bigger bang than other people, leading them to seek more intense experiences. Another is a relative disregard for harm, meaning, basically, that they’re not as afraid of negative consequences as regular folks. The third is impulsivity, or acting on your desires without fully thinking them through. — What distinguishes an everyday adventurer from an extreme or foolhardy one lies in the interplay of these factors. Mountaineers may be adventurous and well able to handle stress, but they tend not to be impulsive, often carefully planning their expeditions for months. – This Is Your Brain on Adventure – Outside Magazine

While on my Seven Summits Quest, I have had all 10 fingers nearly to the wooden stage, been stopped dead in my tracks unable to breath, been struck by the static discharge of close lightning, been up all night gasping for breath, had nearly non-stop diarrhea for days, spent the night in a tent with a puking partner, twisted my ankle with a 16 mile hike out, frost-nipped my face so I stopped shaving, lost and blackened toenails, endured bleeding blisters, nearly exploded gall bladder. Yet I persist on this pursuit, and have plans for more summits in the coming years.

While training Mixed Climbing (dry tooling) in Ouray last week, I managed to pop off a very vertical (read: overhanging) cliff face and swung out inverted (upside down) about 60′ from the ground, and as I swung out, still hanging onto my ice tools, silent, I thought to myself “I don’t seem to be sliding out of my loosely-worn harness. Good. So if I can tap the wall when I come back in, maybe I can straighten up and sit right.” It worked and I managed to come back into the wall on a shelf and shake it out. Picture below is just after I tapped my right foot, flagging my left foot as I swung back upright at the end of the pendulum. I had fallen from the left wall under the ice curtain.


Was/am I in denial? Are you in denial? If you’re going to consider the Seven Summits, please consider the risk with an open mind. People die every year on almost every one of the Seven Summits, even the so-called easy ones. I was saddened to hear about some recent deaths on Elbrus, for climbers I met during the Elbrus Race 2010:

Rescuers have found a body of a Ukrainian climber, Maryna Khytriakova, at the height of 4,700 meters on Mount Elbrus – Ukrainian female climber found dead on Elbrus – Kyiv Post

Anyone who climbs for a long time will eventually have lists of friends and acquaintances who were crippled, maimed or killed while climbing. Denali and Everest are particularly notorious among the Seven Summits for annual deaths. Aconcagua has many deaths as well, though not being so much in the headlines. Do yourself a favor and think, consider where you are on these lists, where you could be, and plan appropriately.

Related Posts:

International Everest Height Dispute

February 24th, 2012 | Posted by Charles Miske in Asia | News - (1 Comments)

And while we’re on the topic of changing the height of Everest, this Times of India news story points to another dispute.

In the border talks between Nepal and China, scheduled for earlier this month but postponed at the last moment at Nepal’s request , the height of Everest was one of the issues on the agenda, according to government officials.

For how to measure the summit of Everest, China wants to recognize the rock under the snow cap, while Nepal currently recognizes the top of the snow cap, which is about 12′ thick, making Everest that much taller by Nepalese standards. This may or may not be all that significant, since I don’t know that anyone has ever climbed Everest only to the top of the rock layer, without also being on top of the snow layer. Any opinions?

1) After 29,000-ish-feet who cares about 12 feet more or less?
2) Those countries over there are always having issues about something
3) If Global Warming continues, the top will naturally come down anyway, so let’s just wait.

Source: Charles on Pinterest – Ryan Hamilton climbing in Ouray CO

Related Posts: